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Climate Change and Tiny Houses

Changes ahead, are you prepared!

Why climate change is not just an environmental issue.

The changing climate has been in and out of the news for years with people sounding the warnings of what may happen. Rising sea levels, lowland coasts being flooded, glaciers melting at an alarming rate, ice caps melting, strong super highs blocking low pressure cells creating super storms aka Sandy comes to mind, a new northern route for sea traffic, island nations trying to figure out how to not become swamped – and yet people keep on keeping on. Some are saying it is the sun cycle that is warming the planet, or the poles are shifting causing current and storm paths to change, or a natural earth cycle, or maybe, just maybe, mankind itself is a contributing factor by adding all the pollutants into the air.

At this point, whatever the cause, we are starting to feel the effects. Warmer climates in the north, record breaking highs across the country, record snowfalls in April, mega storms hitting the New England states, lakes levels dropping; we are all witnessing something new.

Are there other signs?

We do not have to look far for other things;

FEMA ordering 250k small transportable healthy living trailers/tiny houses
Camps being set up far inland
Homeland Security ordering large amounts of weaponry
Military drawing up contingency plans
Survivalists ordering and/or building self contained mobile units
Assessments on local, national, and global impacts
Hot Spots for building tiny houses are coastal

The predictions are rolling in that a lot coastal areas will be underwater by 2099. In the twentieth century the sea levels rose 7.9 inches and by the year 2099, they are predicted to rise another 23 inches. And that 23” is a big IF as long as the ice sheets melt at predicted rates. And that melting of the ice sheets in 2012 has increased at an alarming rate. That will mean a lot of displaced families and folks that need shelter, so the FEMA order and camps for refuges falls into a possible planning concept. How real is it? When people and governments start putting dollars and actions to scenarios, it is something to be concerned about.

I believe in leading indicators and as such; the rising oceans would have a set of serious set of consequences to deal with. Even, the Pentagon is starting to climate change take seriously, here and abroad, with assessments and various scenarios. From the New York Times, “The changing global climate will pose profound strategic challenges to the United States in coming decades, raising the prospect of military intervention to deal with the effects of violent storms, drought, mass migration and pandemics, military and intelligence analysts say. …..Such climate-induced crises could topple governments, feed terrorist movements or destabilize entire regions, say the analysts, experts at the Pentagon and intelligence agencies who for the first time are taking a serious look at the national security implications of climate change.”

People and agencies are preparing assessments and one of those assessments is the rising oceans will have serious and dire consequences on resources and infrastructure and includes massive evacuations and migrations of people inland.

So, this is what I see in the future, more people will live and utilize transportable structures such as tiny houses rather than tradition housing, and this will be spurred on by government, insurance companies, and code changes. We already know that in flood plains, which cannot get insurance on permanent homes – in fact people are encouraged to move or use the land as a camping site/temporary stay. I think that insurance companies will stop insuring permanent residences on coastal areas that may go underwater, and yet they will encourage and insure transportable structures aka tiny houses that can be moved inland easily when severe weather approaches.

I have heard from some tiny house builders that the hot spots are the Northwest, New England States, and Gulf areas. People are not only loving the idea of living small, but the security of knowing that if and when a severe storm or high water approaches they can move inland to safety easily and quickly.

In the many phone calls I have received over the years, one of the key questions always asked, “If a storm or hurricane is approaching, how fast would I be able to move my tiny house?” My response is that it would only take an hour or two to hook up, disconnect from utilities and drive inland out of the storms way. Then come back when it is safe to return.

The number of survivalists that are calling or placing orders is increasing and they all want the ability to go off grid for extended periods of time and yet be secure enough that they can park their tiny house on a rock and leave it, if needed, while maintaining their ability to work along the seaboards.

Here are some just in case thoughts if you are living in a coastal or flood plain area or for that matter anyplace that might experience a natural disaster; hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes, floods, tsunami, forest fire or any an act of God.

Know the types of hazards that could affect your family, and know your home’s vulnerability to storm surge, floods, and wind. Find out if you live in an evacuation zone and keep track of which zone it is. If you live close to the floodplain, consider flood insurance.

Make plans for where you’ll go, preferably outside the vulnerable area, or consider the closest possible public shelter. Have a single point of contact for your family members to keep in touch. Make a plan now for what to do with your pets if you need to evacuate.

Stock non-perishable emergency supplies and keep a disaster supply kit within reach.

Prepare your home prior to leaving: board up doors and windows, secure or move all yard objects indoors, and turn off all utilities. Fill your car with gas, withdraw extra money from the ATM, and be sure to take all prescription medicines and special medical items, such as glasses and diapers.

Downsize to a tiny house that is transportable and just move out of the way.

If you live in an evacuation zone and are ordered to evacuate by state or local officials, do so as quickly as possible. Do not attempt to cross flowing water. As little as six inches of water may cause you to lose control of your vehicle.

Stay tuned to a local radio or television station and listen carefully for any advisories or specific instructions from local officials. Monitor your NOAA weather radio. Remember to replace its battery every six months, as you do with your smoke detectors.

Making a tiny house round top window

A Tiny House Round Top Window

Difficulty Level 9

Tools Needed;

Table saw
Ear Plugs or ear muffs
Eye Protection
Belt Sander
Jig, Scroll saw, or Band saw
Tape Measure
Small and large pipe/bar clamps
Cordless drill
Hand Plane
Power Planer
Roller
Paint Tray

Materials Needed – Approx $ 350

1 -1/8” x 4 x 8 Bendable Plywood
6 pcs – ¾” x 2 x 4 MDO Board
1 – 5/4 x 8’ x 4’ hardwood
Glue
Insulated Glass – To be ordered after frame is completed

Savings approximately $1,500.00 *

*Labor costs not included

When it comes to making curved window and furniture parts, woodworkers have several options; They can cut or shape the curve from a single, thick piece of wood, or they can steam the part to make it pliable enough for bending, or they can use bendable plywood. Some woodworkers cut a series of thin saw kerfs into the back of a piece of wood to make it bendable. And finally, there is lamination bending. For many applications where the side layers of veneer show, I find that lamination bending—in which thin plies of wood are glued up on a curved form—is often the best method. It uses material efficiently and produces tight curves with little spring back. For curved window jamb parts where only the 1st 1/8” of jamb appears, my preference is using bendable plywood.

Bendable plywood – Description: Plywood with a single face veneer and core plies with all grain running perpendicular to face to allow cross-grain bending. Uses: Used mostly as a substrate for building cabinets, etc., with rounded corners. Sheets with clear face veneers are suitable for furniture. Available Sizes: 1/8″ and 3/8″ are common, though thicker sheets are produced. Sold in 4×8′ sheets. Common Grades: Able to conform to tight radii without splitting or cracking with no need for kerf-bending or steaming. Pros: Flexibility allows radiuses corners, decorative shapes. Cons: Not designed for structural use, quality of face veneer varies greatly. Where to find it: Building-supply stores and hardwood retailers. We pick up our bendable plywood and hardwood from Youngblood Lumber in Minneapolis, MN.

Lamination bending is very economical

The procedure is simple. Glue is applied to all of the plies, and then they are stacked and clamped around a curved form. The piece ends up with the same curve as the form. This technique is a good way to bend woods that feature interesting grain patterns, like curly or bird’s-eye figure. You pay a premium for such wood, so cutting the curved piece from a single thick board can get rather expensive. And that fancy grain doesn’t hold up well to the stresses of steam bending. But by gluing up a stack of plies to make a curved piece, you need only use the figured wood for the show side of the work piece. The inner plies can be any straight-grain wood. You end up with a strong part that looks like a solid piece of expensive wood.

One of the features of tiny houses is special sized round/arched windows; Gothic, arched, triangular, or round tops. To purchase a round top window that fits the size and geometry of a tiny house is expensive at best. Manufacturers do not like making special order windows with round tops that are narrower than 30” and that size is does not work well in gables of tiny houses. The best way around this is to make your own Gothic, arched, or round top windows yourself. That is what we do at Tiny Green Cabins. We make the jambs and then order the glass from a local glass shop. But 1^st you need the form for making the jambs. We will be making a round top window that has 24” between the jambs.

A form supports the bend

To control the shape of a bend until the glue dries, you’ll need a bending form. A typical form consists of a solid core with several outer segments. The core, often called the male form, matches the inside shape of the bend, while the outer segments, the female forms, match the outside shape of the bend. Particleboard, plywood and medium-density fiberboard (MDF) all are acceptable materials for making a form.

When clamped to the plies placed on the core, the outer segments serve as clamp pads, distributing the pressure evenly along the full length of the work piece. With this method, all ofthe laminations end up squeezed tightly together, ensuring a good glue bond. The height of the form should equal the width of the laminations, plus a bit extra. Generally, that means you’ll need to face-glue several pieces of MDF.

But before making the form, two curves must be drawn full size on paper: One line represents the inside curve of the lamination; a second line parallel to the first represents the outside curve.

Once the curves have been drawn, tape the paper to a single piece of MDF that’s a few inches wider and longer than the curve. Transfer the inside curve to the MDF using an awl. Punch a hole through the line on the paper and into the MDF every inch or so along the full length of both the inside and outside curves. Remove the paper and connect all of the holes to create a smooth curve. A piece of thin plastic or wood batten comes in handy here as a flexible ruler. To make the process easier, use a few small nails to position the ruler exactly on the curve. Once everything looks okay, use a pencil to scribe a line along the full length of the curve. Then repeat the process for the outside curve.

Next, use the band saw or jig saw to cut just slightly on the waste side of the two lines. You end up with three pieces: one for the core of the form, one for the segments and a waste piece from the middle.

Now sand the curved edge of the core exactly to the line (I use a belt sander on edge). The inside curves on the segment piece are shaped to the line with a half-round file and then smoothed with sandpaper. Use the first layer as a template to scribe the two curves on all of the remaining layers, then cut them out a bit on the waste side, just as you did on the first one. Now you’re ready to trim the edge flush using a router and a flush-trimming bit. For applications like this, I like a bit with a shank-mounted bearing because it’s easier to see that the bearing is staying in contact with the template. Also, it vibrates less than a typical end-mounted flush-trimming bit.

Fasten the template to the first layer with a couple of screws. Then trim it flush using a router. At this point, we need to determine how thick the form or how many plys to make it. We need the form to be 1-1/2” wider than the jamb size we will need. To hold the glass in place, we need window stops and the 1-1/2” excess will become the stops. For our purpose, we need 3-7/8” jambs plus the 1-1/2” or 5-3/8” rips Therefore, the form needs to be 5-/1/2” or 8 layers. Repeat the process for each layer, using the original template to guide the router. Once all of the layers of the form have been cut out, glue and screw the pieces together, taking care to make sure the edges remain perfectly flush. When completed, you’ll have two parts: the core and the segment piece. Now use the band saw to cut the segment piece into several parts. On each segmented part, the edge opposite the curve is cut square to the centerline for better clamp alignment. Cut out about 1⁄4 in. between each of the segments to provide adequate clearance. Next, drill holes for the clamps in the core. Then add a base piece to the core, which will make it easier to clamp the form to a workbench. To complete work on the core, use wide cellophane tape to cover all of the surfaces that might see glue squeeze-out. Without the cellophane, the lamination would likely end up glued to the form.

For tight bends, use thinner plies

With the form completed, you need to determine the number of plys and the width of each ply; we earlier determined that the ply width would be 5-1/2”. A general rule of thumb applies here: As the desired bend gets tighter, the plies must get thinner. When the plies are the correct thickness, spring back becomes inconsequential, and failure due to splits or cracks is rare. Since we are working with 1/8” bendable plywood, and we want a ¾” jamb thickness, we want 6 plys to glue together for the jambs.

Milling the plies — Once the ply thickness is known, you can go ahead and cut all of the plies. First, rip stock to a little wider than the work piece to allow for trimming after the part has been bent. Next, crosscut the stock to length, keeping in mind that it’s generally best to cut the plies several inches longer than the finished part. The lamination will be trimmed to final length after bending.

With the stock cut to rough length and width, it’s ready to be glued and clamped to the form.

You need to work quickly during glue-up

It’s best to glue all of the plies in one operation. Apply glue to both sides of each one except, of course, for the two outside surfaces. The goal is to coat all of the surfaces completely. A pair of lightweight rubber gloves will help keep glue off your hands. You’ll want to work quickly because the glue has a very limited open time. To help speed up the process, I lay all of the plies on plastic wrap before spreading glue on one side of all of the layers at once. Then, except for the two outside pieces, I turn them over, glued side down on the plastic, and coat the other side. It’s tempting to glue the layers just a few at a time, but I always glue the entire oozing bundle at one time no matter how many pieces.

Once the surfaces have been coated with glue, the plies are placed one on top of the other to form a single stack. Make sure the two uncoated surfaces are facing the outside of the stack. Also, you want all of the edges of the stack to be reasonably flush.

Clamp the plies in the form—Now comes the part that’s most exciting—bending the plies. First, though, place the stacked plies, on edge, on the core of the form. Then start adding the clamps and the segments. You have a couple of options when determining the clamping sequence. You can apply the first clamp at the lengthwise midpoint of the lamination and then add clamps as you work toward each end. Or you can start at one end and work toward the opposite end (as shown above). The point is to avoid adding a clamp between two clamps already tightened. Doing so might encourage a bump in the curve. Either way, get the first clamp secured. And as you do, keep the edges of the plies reasonably well aligned. Then add the remaining clamps in sequence. As I work my way along, adding and tightening clamps, I often keep an extra clamp on the plies. This loosely applied clamp, which is about a foot or so from the clamp being tightened, helps encourage the lamination to conform to the bend. Once all of the clamps have been added, take a minute to make sure all of them are tight. When you’re satisfied everything is snugged up properly, it’s just a matter of letting the glue cure. I prefer to let them cure over night before removing the clamps and jambs from the form.

One last point. Big glue-ups like this always come with a certain amount of anxiety. But you can minimize the anxiety level by doing a dry run of the entire clamping process. Smooth the edges—After the glue has dried, remove the work piece from the form. Expect a fair amount of glue squeeze-out along the edges. Because the plies tend to shift a little during glue-up, the edges are going to be less than smooth. So the next step is to flatten, smooth and trim both edges to final width. A hand plane or belt sander makes short work of cleaning the glue, but they aren’t the best tools for getting the two long edges of the work piece straight and parallel. I get one surface as straight as possible and then send the work piece on edge through my my table saw. Depending on how much the work piece is curved, it might have to be steered along the fence and through the blade. Ripping the 2 pieces of½” stops 1^st, and setting them aside, I set the fence to rip the jamb. Then using the belt sander and planer, I smooth the edges. The next step is to cut the jambs to length making sure that the overall height of jambs are ½” short of the rough opening.. I like to cut the jambs square so that the jambs cab be shimmed off of the rough sill. Then I mark a line on the inside of the jamb to align the sill to.

The next step is cutting the sill piece of the window. Since we are building a window with inside dimensions of 24”, we want the total length of sill to be 32-1/2” in length. 24” + thickness of jambs ¾ +3/4 = 1-1/2” + dog ear on each side of 3-1/2” which is for the exterior trim to sit on. The dog ear is determined by the width of exterior trim used. The next step is to use the width of the window jamb we are using as the sill width plus 1-1/2 “dog eared depth. We want the sill to slope at 10 degrees so that the water will drain off and not puddle on the sill. Rip one side of the 5/4 board at 10 degrees and then set the fence to 5” and rip the other side at 10 degrees also. Now on the outside underside, you need to run the sill trough the table saw adding a saw kerf about ¼” deep to the sill. This kerf is needed to stop water from wicking back up to the wall and possibly into the walls. Next notch out for the dog ears and we are ready to assemble the window components.

Assembling the window –

Now that we have all the pieces cut, we are ready to assemble the jambs and sill together for the window. Since the sills and jambs have been cut, all we need to do is add some glue to the sill and slide the sill between the jambs making sure we align it with our pencil marks. Screw the jambs to the sill with 3 screws per side. Then cut and install one stop to the jamb. I like large sills on the inside for holding things, so I set the 1^st sill in 3” and use brads to hold it in place. Then I use rosin paper and cut to fit it for a template for the glass company. This is the exact size needed, so I inform the glass company to make the glass 1/8” smaller on all sides. It generally takes about 3 weeks for the glass to be ready for pickup. Once the glass is here, I run a bead of caulk around the stop and use a 1/8” rubber spacer at the bottom and slide the glass into place. We like using the aquarium caulk for this. Then another bead of caulk around the edge, then install the final stop. All that is left to do is install the exterior and interior trim, paint and stain as needed and clean the glass after the caulks have cured.

Reclaimed Material in Tiny Houses

or Two rights can make a wrong

Sometimes, two rights do make a wrong! Recycled, reused or repurposed building materials can conflict with other environmental and health concerns. For instance, many green buildings are extremely energy-efficient, in part because of new synthetic materials that provide greater insulation and strength than traditional materials. The reuse of old materials can reduce stress on the environment, but at what cost? Is it better to reuse old, drafty lead-tinted windows or simply make or buy new ones? Wooden beams may retain their structural integrity, but what if they are contaminated with lead paint? In the world of reclaimed lumber, beams and timbers are called “black gold” because of the price to purchase and then recondition them. Recycled or repurposed building materials must be closely examined before they can be used in new construction projects.

If you are planning a tiny house project, using reclaimed building materials can help you save money while adding a touch of nostalgia to your work. When looking for reused building materials, it is important to know what size lumber or fixtures you need. Examine the wood carefully to see if it has rotten places or signs of termite damage. You may also want to know if the secondhand building materials you are considering contain lead or asbestos, because these elements can be dangerous and costly to remove. While the EPA discourages the use of these materials for building, they are not ruled unusable if they have a sealant placed over them to prevent dust or particles from flaking off. However, while the EPA may not be specific on the use or sale, state laws may. For example there is a state statue in Wisconsin, against selling building materials with lead on them.

The rules are a lot tougher on the contractor and “builder” and once again, it is wise to check out the rules and statues in your particular state. For example, building one tiny house, you may not consider yourself a builder, but your state may. If, your intent is to build one and live in it, then resell and build another one, Minnesota considers you a builder and you need to be licensed as such.

You may want to start your search for reclaimed building materials at a salvage lumberyard. Here, you may be able to browse through stacks of vintage building materials in order to find a specific item. Since the inventory at such lumberyards changes on a day-to-day basis, you may not find exactly what you are looking for on your first visit. Having a written plan and material list for your building project will help you know what recycled building materials you may be able to use, and give you guidance in determining the size of different items.

After you find reclaimed building materials that you are interested in, the next step is to make sure they are usable. Look each piece over carefully, and check to see if there are rotten places in any of the wood. It can also be a good idea to look for insect damage to avoid carrying home termites or other bugs.

Knowing where the reclaimed building materials originated can help you determine whether these building materials may contain lead paint or asbestos. Many dealers identify such items by placing a label on them warning consumers about these hazardous materials. Lead paint and asbestos were widely used before 1980, so materials from homes built before that time could contain them, even if they are not specifically identified.

Some vintage building supplies may need a great deal of work before they can be used in your tiny house project. This is especially true of baseboards and molding. If you chose an item that needs repair work, you need to decide if you will do this yourself or if you will hire a professional. A professional needs a clean room specifically for working with these products. In the event that you need to hire someone, this could make the end cost much higher than you anticipated. Knowing how much it could cost to refurbish certain items can help you make an accurate calculation so you will be able to buy recycled building materials while staying within your budget.

Below is a handy index for use to help you determine if the reclaimed material is wise to use.

Reclaimed Material Index

Item	What to reuse	What to recycle	What to dispose	Environmental & Health Concerns
Wood (lumber, flooring, etc)	Timbers, large dimension lumber, plywood, flooring, moldings, lumber longer than 4′	Unpainted and untreated wood unfit for reuse	Painted, pressure-treated and rotting wood	Painted wood may contain lead or contaminates, especially prior to 1980
Windows	Windows in good condition (for single pane consider adding a storm window)	Metal frames and screens, unpainted and untreated wood	Glass, unusable painted items and wood in disrepair	Lead paint, asbestos in older window glazing compound, energy inefficiency
Cabinets	Good used cabinets (consider re-facing or reusing in your home/workshop/garage	Remove and recycle hardware, unpainted and unfinished wood	Painted or finished wood	Lead paint, formaldehyde in particle board or interior grade plywood
Plumbing Products	Sinks, tubs, faucets	Metal pipes, toilets and inefficient plumbing fixtures (porcelain or metal), faucets with lead content	PVC and other plastic pipes, toilet seats(not accepted at recycling centers)	Drinking water; lead content in faucets, solder, and old galvanized pipe
Plaster and Gypsum Wallboard	Repair cracks, or cover with textured paint, install new wallboard over old or skim coat	Wood lathe if clean can be reused/recycled, unpainted wallboard	Painted plaster or wallboard	Nuisance dust, lead paint on walls, possible asbestos in older wallboard
Electrical Products	Only if in good working order or rewired	Metal fixtures, conduit	Ceramic and plastic parts	Frayed wires, possible asbestos insulation
Roofing Materials	Retain sheathing, if in good condition, terra cota slate times, metal roofing	Metal materials, contractors generally have outlets for recycling asphalt roofing materials, untreated cedar shingles	Treated cedar shingles	Possible asbestos content

Tiny House Pesky Wheel Wells

The area of the wheel wells for tiny houses on trailers is often the peskiest place prone for leaks. Since they also protrude into a tiny house they require some work and fore thought to insulate and cover.

At Tiny Green Cabins, when we are building the tiny house, we like to make sure we follow our steps to guarantee we have minimized the possibility of a leak.

We use a building gasket on our plates and around the wheel well where the plates meet the well. We staple the gasket to the bottom of the wood plate and attach the plate to the wheel well by drilling from the underside of the wheel well to the wood/metal bottom plate. Then we use a stainless steel screw to secure the wheel well to the plate. As the plate compresses against the wheel well, it forms a tight seal on the inner and outer side of the plate.

BUILDING GASKETS: Building gaskets are designed to seal under heavy loads, such as under sill plates, wall plates, roof panels, wall panels, and rim joists. Since they are effective moisture barriers, they eliminate the need for damp proofing between wood and masonry or concrete foundations. They come in 3 sizes: BG65 for 2 x 6’s, BG63 for 2 x 4’s, and BG61 for edges of rim joists, joints in exterior foam sheathing, or connections between stress-skin panels and posts or purlins.

Then as we apply other exterior layers in the wheel well area, we back caulk such as the wall sheathing. Before we apply the sheathing, we run a heavy bead of Vulkum caulk around the wheel well to the plates and then install the wall sheathing. The wall sheathing presses into the caulk adding another layer of sealant to prevent water infiltration. The last bead of caulk that is applied is at the siding face; we apply a continuous clean bead of caulk that is tooled to a nice finishing look.

On the inside of the wheel wells, we building what we call a wheel well cover that has a 3” air space between the wheel well and cover. We then fill that space with a large gap expanding foam insulation such as from Great Stuff. Once that foam has cured, we remove any excess of foam and apply the top of the wheel well cover. From there it is personal preference on how best to camouflage the wheel well, such as with built in book cases, a couch, or desk.

A Readers Question

You seem to be the only site I can find that has built tiny houses out of metal but there is conflicting information on the internet as to the benefits of using wood versus metal so could you please give me your take on it. Some are saying the metal is to flimsy and screws back out.

I’m trying to learn. My goal is to combine a tiny house with a minimal roof pitch for more sleeping area and a mobile diabetic bakery. I would appreciate any information.

Thank you

Hi,

There are not many people that use steel in homes, let alone tiny homes. I do remember seeing Tortoise Shell Homes of southern California using steel in some of their homes. We are unique as we use predominately steel as we build for a lot of people with chemical and environmental sensitivities, which means using a hardwood or steel. I have been a carpenter that specialized in wood frame homes for 30+ years, so steel was something new to me. But when the costs from hardwood to steel were compared, the buyer decided to use steel. Steel weighs in at 1.09lbs per lineal foot, while a typical hardwood 2×4 material weighed in at 2.73 lbs per lineal foot. As you can see, steel was substantially less in weight, or the hardwood studs would weigh double what a steel stud weighs.

Welded Tiny House Frame

Then there is the price difference. Hardwood 2×4 ash material costs $1.42 per lineal foot, while steel costs $0.88 per lineal foot.

The steel used in tiny homes can be confused easily with steel seen in the local box stores, such as Lowes or Home Depot. That steel is usually flimsy and rated at a 25 gauge. Screws used to connect this type have limited holding power and will loosen over time, especially if used in a mobile unit that is subject to vibration. To obtain the steel we use, requires a commercial source such as a large drywall supplier of sheetrock and related materials for commercial buildings such as offices, high rises, and large condominiums.

The weight difference I described above was for the structural steel we use in our tiny houses. Tortoise Shell Homes uses the same gauge (thickness) as we do. We use a 16 gauge for the floor system and 18 gauge for wall and roof structure. Since we also weld all the connection, the steel gauge must be 18 or better, as any higher gauge, a welder will burn through the pieces rather than bond the pieces together. Once the frame is welded, the screws can be removed, as they are not really necessary to hold the structure together. The welds also serve as a bracing as bond the entire joint together which greater increases structural integrity of the tiny house.

In a wood framed tiny house, screws do loosen up, nails do loosen up and pop, as the material is always drying out and adjusting to the air and humidity around it; steel it does not absorb moisture, thus it stable.

Some of the quick advantages of steel ; termite proof, fire proof, earth quake tested, lower insurance premiums, steel is “true”, tensile strength, healthy, sustainable, and design flexible. We can do things with steel that a carpenter wished he could do with wood.

Finally, we like sleeping at night, and that requires a healthy confidence in what the company does. The Spruce Goose made by Howard Hughes only flew once, yet the airplanes that we see now fly countless miles with nary a structural failure. The tiny house that is mobile meets a lot of the same forces and “G’s” that a plane encounters, so it just seems common sense to build them in a similar way with similar products.

Now, steel does have one drawback from wood. With steel framing, a thermal break is needed to reduce the transfer of cold or heat to interior surface of the steel; if steel is cold on the outside of the wall, it will be cold on the living side of that steel studs/plates. Installing a thermal break of ½” foam in the outside of the wall makes a big difference in heating/cooling.

Thanks for the inquiry

Jim

Explore2live Update

The Explore2live is a custom spacious nontoxic tiny house, and some may refer to it as an RV. It is 8′-6″ x 42′ x 12′-6″ tall. It is being built on a 5th wheel trailer that was purchased out of Down to Earth Trailers in Georgia. Some of the features of the Explore2live are welded 18 gauge steel frame, R22 walls, R55 roof, an electric fireplace, Dickenson Propane Fireplace, whirlpool tub, Incinerat Toilet, queen sized bed over the 5th wheel, meditation area, kitchen, in floor storage, 3 stainless steel 100 gal. water tanks, storage area under the bathroom, stainless steel sinks and table, Diamond Plating in the shower, birch paneling throughout, hardwood floors, Integrity Ultrex Windows that are recessed to allow for shutters to close over them when mobile and a whole lot more.

Whatever one wants to call the Explore2live; it is demonstrating that the staff and Tiny Green Cabins is a custom builder of spacious and individualized tiny houses for people with chemical and environmental sensitivities.

: Perspective Drivers Side

: Designing the Tiny House

: Perspective Passenger side

: Welding the Lower Floor

: Welded Tiny House Frame

: More Welded Frame

: Sheathing Being Applied

: Tiny House Housewrap

: A Dupont Product Billboard

: Tiny House Water and Ice applied

: Caleb setting windows prep work

: Caleb welding in supports for larger water tanks

: A tiny accident on a tiny house

: Spaying Closed Cell Insulation

: Ripping Basswood for window and door bucks

: Closed cell foam installed

: Foam insulation can be messy

: Cleaning up from Closed Cell Spray

: Installing the Thermo Break

: Tiny House Loft floor

: Installing the tiny house paneling

: Karen installing thermo break in bathroom area

: More Paneling

: Hard at work

: Still hard at work

: Tiny house long shot

: Tiny House working crew

Tiny House Nook Possibilities

The Prairie Schooner and some new models are being designed with main floor bedrooms in the tiny houses. I like lofts and yet for myself, it would be great if main floor bedrooms were designed into a tiny house. For us, at Tiny Green Cabins, that means models that are longer than 20′ are being designed to allow for main floor bedrooms. The following pictures are some that we found online that are part of the inspiration behind tiny house bedroom. In larger homes, they are often referred to nooks; reading nooks, sleeping nooks, and more.

If you see an idea when you are surfing or touring homes that you like, snap a picture and send it our way or post it on our business facebook page.

Transportable Tiny Houses

Prairie Rose Tiny House

Did you know? While serving in the military and subsequently deployed to an overseas location – they will ship the tiny house for free to your deployment location. This is subject to case by case review, and a tiny house is treated like portable housing. Cool

This puts a whole new spin on our motto;

“Take your tiny green cabin…wherever life takes you!”

Pictured is our Prairie Rose Tiny House ready and waiting to be deployed.

What is a Cabin?

Winter Morning Wildflower

What is a cabin? How do we distinguish it from a house, let alone a tiny house?

Dale Mulfinger lists four cabin characteristics. He did a speech on Cabinology 101 and he knows cabins, especially Minnesota cabins. And I suspect that anyplace that has cabins has the same four cabin characteristics.

Dale Mulfinger is a Minneapolis architect and author of 2 great books on cabins he has designed or admired: The Cabin and The Getaway Home. He describes a cabin as a place not to live, but a place to escape to them. Which is not far from what a tiny house is; a place to escape from the demands and monies that a large home requires, to a place to escape to so we can be able to “live like giants”

1. The site is chosen for its natural beauty.

One of the challenges is taking advantage of the views that some sites offer. With a transportable tiny house/cabin, the choice of views and directions faced becomes a non issue. As the seasons change, the views often reveal something new and a transportable tiny house is able to enjoy all the different views. Or maybe, you are a writer, and enjoy the sun shining on the windows. Mount the cabin on a turntable as George Bernard Shaw did and spin the house following the sun throughout the day. He even named it “London” so his staff could say he went to “London” and be able to say it truthfully. Shaw’s cabin allowed him to take advantage of the sun for passive solar heat.

2. A cabin provides simple basic shelter. It isn’t fancy. It doesn’t try to make a social statement, as houses often do. A small efficient floor plan is all it needs.

When I was growing up, we often saw tiny cabins dotting the roadside by farmer’s fields and along the rivers and streams. They were basic; a place to sleep, single pane windows, a small kitchen often with a water pump and small sink, wood stove, and a lofted area or small bedroom with bunks. The latrine was always outside, set back into the trees.

The tiny houses and cabins now often are quite larger than the cabins of old. When one decides get back to the basics, a lot of space is not needed. However, some things moved into the cabins; double and triple pane windows, insulation, and the latrine aka bathroom.

Tired of the distractions of modern living, Henry David Thoreau went to the woods to live a deliberate and simple life. He borrowed some land near a pond called Walden from friend Ralph Waldo Emerson and built himself a simple 10′x15′ shack for $28.12 and furnished it with a bed, a table, a desk, and three chairs.

Smaller cabins and tiny houses do make a social statement it seems even if not their intent; low carbon footprint, living sustainably, I don’t need a big space to live and more. The use of cabins are expanding; they are no longer in the mountains, found is hidden nooks or valleys, but coming into mainstream life. They are sprouting up like wildflowers in a spring time meadow as writer huts, sewing dens, garden retreats, hermitages, proverbial “dog house,” back yard offices, student dorm rooms, mother or father in law quarters, nanny quarters, or caretaker cottages. As times change, so will the zoning laws allowing for more uses in denser population centers.

3. Overlapping activities take place within compact quarters.

Living small means living smart and using space for dual purposes; great room becomes a study area, relaxing space, work space, eating space. The kitchen while its primary function is cooking – one can actually cook healthy in a tiny kitchen instead of running daily to the store, burger and noodle joints for fast food seems out of context for living small and in a tiny house. If one does not cook in, except for the occasional add hot water, the counter space can be used as a desk top for work, writing, or just pondering why I am living in a tiny house/cabin. The loft besides sleeping is a great place to read or day dream listening to the rain drop hit the metal roof or watching out through the loft window as wildlife plays just below you.

4. Everybody feels at home right away. A cabin furnishings are simple, often treasured family hand me downs. It is sleeping lofts, tucked under the eve, evokes memories of childhood. It fireplace or stove provides physical and emotional warmth.

Cabins are magical! Climbing into the loft each night became comforting and cozy. The Wildflower and the loft had become my nest and “safe Place’ to rest, sleep, and relax in. My pillow was at the awning window and I could look out into the night and see creatures of the night moving about; deer ambling thru the yard and cleaning up the seeds below the feeders; the skunk that found the ground bees nest and savory honey; to the owl and mouse drama that resulted in a flurry of wings; the dancing of the shadows of the moonlight dancing across the grass; the wind whistling around the eves at night; the rain drops pelting the roof all bring about childhood memories of sleeping in under the eaves in the old farm house of my parents.

Most of my days of childhood were spent outside the house, in the woods, haymows, and forts that I would build in secret places. The tiny house is similar to those places, a friend used the term to describe a tiny green cabins as a ‘power fort!”

For me, my cabin or cottage is about making a choice; living smaller and sustainably so that I can live large and enjoy the experiences that this new freedom form ‘stuff’ brings me.

Living Small is About Experiences

Jim is enjoying his house guests as he builds their customized non toxic not so tiny, tiny house.

Jim, Harris, and Karen at the fall workshop.

The name of the not so tiny, tiny house is “Explore2Live;” 40′ x 8′, 320 sqft, weight 20,000 pounds, road height 12′ – 9″, steel framed with an R 45 roof, large kitchen, large great room, 2 fireplaces, 5th room bedroom and bath with safe room below, lockable equipment room, in floor storage with hatches, loft at stern with bay window, with niche for an Onan 6000 watt generator, 200 gal water storage, solar power. The Explore2Live is built to go off the grid for an indefinite period if needed. The Explore2Live is packed with features.

Karen and Harris were part of our workshop this fall and decided after the 2nd day to have us build the Explore2Live.

Jim’s cottage is 400 sqft, so we are indeed having a “build a tiny house” and living experience.

People, build small so they can live large, and we build tiny houses because we really enjoy the of experiences, new ideas, and new friends that we meet. We are a custom tiny house builder and love working with people and help them make their dreams come alive. One could say, that this tiny house is a workshop in many ways, as Harris and Karen are learning the details of their tiny house. They have also recently informed us that we will be building several more tiny houses for them and their recently purchased property in Colorado.

Harris and Karen are well versed in marketing and are handing out business cards all over and talking up Tiny Green Cabins. They had talked to other tiny house builders, and met resistance for what they wanted to do. Since we are a custom tiny house builder, and have built custom homes from small homes to McMansions; we feel we can offer an excellent service to people looking for something different in tiny houses and not so tiny, tiny houses. After some discussions, they also felt the same way.

“Jim Wilkins YOU Rock! Thank you, WE appreciate you for helping US build our TINY greEN cabIN on wheeLS…YOW!
Sustainable is prayer for the people similar to mediciNE for the peoPLE is music as a prayer with wisdom and integrity. YOU are amazing and the world needs more of both tiny green cabins and medicine for the people… peace & blessings, “swirl” aka karen murphy-sizelove”"

Harris has also held workshops on watersheds and water resources in Virginia and plans on continuing workshops in Colorado, and using the Explore2Live as a part of those workshops.

Here are some pictures of the plans and build process of the Explore2live